Our anchor had barely settled into the patch of white sand in seven feet of water behind Shroud Cay when a dinghy approached from the only other boat in the anchorage. When pulling into a quiet cove with only one other boat, one never knows if you are welcome company or intruding on another boat’s solitude. In this case, the solo captain from the other boat was eager for others to share the special landscape. Coincidently, the other boat in the anchorage was the same make as Alembic, our Whitby 42 ketch. There is an immediate kinship that forms with owners of sister ships and our visit with Russ from NautiCuss was no exception. Russ bounded aboard our boat and we swapped Whitby trivia as if we were old friends. The conversation turned toward Bahamas cruising and Russ was eager to share some local knowledge. Since this was our first visit to Shroud Cay we were keen to learn of some new spots.
Secluded beach on Shroud Cay
One of the magical things about cruising with an open itinerary is that unique opportunities for adventure seem to spontaneously appear. Russ invited us to join him on an afternoon dinghy exploration up a creek that meanders across the cay to a secluded beach on the ocean side. As a bonus, there was also a hike up to the notorious but elusive Camp Driftwood. For those who don’t know the legend, Camp Driftwood was the site of a DEA reconnaissance perch that had a view of Norman’s Cay. Between 1978 and 1982 Norman’s was the headquarters for Carlos Lehder’s drug smuggling operation. At the time, Lehder was running distribution for the Medellin Cartel under the notorious Pablo Escobar.
Dinghyexcursion through the creek
We headed out in our dinghy on a rising tide following Russ into the entrance of the creek. In places the creek was quite shallow. Despite the limited tidal range in the Exumas, running the creek during the upper half of the tide offered a bit more water below the prop. The downside of an incoming tide was that the current was running strong in a few places. Our dinghy, with only a six HP outboard, struggled a few times to stem the current. Back and forth we meandered until the bright blue of the deep water cut became visible in the distance. Around a final corner we grounded onto a pristine white sand beach with open ocean to one side and the waters of the creek to the other.
Approaching the ocean-side secluded beach from the creek channel
We eagerly scrambled ashore and planted an anchor high up the beach to keep the dinghy from wandering off on a solo excursion. The white sand of the beach extended out to seaward creating a beautiful spot to swim or just wade in the gin clear water. Finding the trail to Camp Driftwood proved to be easier than anticipated. The trail head was right at the edge of the beach. The actual site of the DEA lookout is also easily identified. In recent years, the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park have erected a sign marking the spot.
Camp Driftwood welcome
The hike to the summit of the hill was fairly easy but we were glad just the same that we had brought sturdy sandals for the adventure. Once we reached the top, we were rewarded with an excellent 360 degree view. The distance to the airfield on Norman’s was further than expected. In fact the view in that direction was not that great. With powerful binoculars, however, it would likely be possible to observe and identify aircraft taking off and landing on the island’s airstrip. Apparently, this was the primary reason for the reconnaissance site. From the hilltop on Shroud Cay the DEA officers attempted to track the aircraft smuggling drugs in and out of Norman’s island and report this traffic back to agents in the USA.
View to the West from Camp DriftwoodView to the North from Camp Driftwood
With our mission accomplished we scrambled back down the hillside to our dinghy and shoved off to catch the last of the incoming current to speed up our return to Alembic. We thanked Russ for the adventure by treating him to sundowners in our cockpit while we swapped sea stories and shared the beauty of this special spot.
“Portland, Maine” a woman exclaims
from the pier. “Did you sail that boat all the way from Maine?” her male
companion chimes in. We are tied stern to at the visitor’s dock in
Ålesund, Norway. The public floats are traversed several times a day by
the parade of tour groups from the visiting cruise ships. It seems we
have become a bonus exhibit for the tour guides. Americans make up a
significant portion of the cruise ship quest list but American sailboats are an
unusual sight in Norway. “We did in fact” replies my wife politely
answering the woman. “Last summer we sailed from the Caribbean to
Bermuda, Bermuda to the Azores, and then from the Azores to Ireland”.
This answer inevitably leads to other incredulous follow-up questions
from the visitors. Their cruise ship
lifestyle is a world apart from our life aboard Alembic, our 42 foot ketch.
By the time we arrived in Ålesund,
we had already been in Norway several weeks. We departed Peterhead, on
the northeast coast of Scotland in late May.
After a two day crossing of the North Sea, we made landfall just south
of Bergen, Norway. Our first two remote Norwegian anchorages gave us a
taste of the amazing landscape and numerous secure coves that make Norway such
a special destination. Fortunately, the landscape makes up for the rainy
weather we experienced in the month of June. The cruising guides warn of
the wet climate especially in the area around Bergen. The west coast of
Norway sticks out into the North Sea like the snout of a walrus. Rugged
mountains rise abruptly from the sea. This geography causes low pressure
systems sweeping into the North Sea to unload the moisture they have lugged
across the Atlantic. This weather pattern, however, also rewards those
who venture further North. The further North you travel in Norway, the
less it rains.
The goal we had set for ourselves
during our winter ashore in Maine was to sail above the Arctic Circle. We hoped to do this as close to the summer
solstice as possible so we could experience the “midnight sun”. This goal
took on more importance one night at our local ski bar, the Loose Boots Lounge,
when we shared the idea with close friends and fellow sailors Cam and Julie.
After a couple of PBR’s it was decided. If we sailed Alembic, our
Whitby 42, north of Bergen, they would join us for a 2 week cruise across 66.5N
latitude and into the Arctic.
Not surprising, sailing on the coast
of Norway is a dream vacation for many adventuresome travelers. Our
daughter Lindsay and her boyfriend David, as well as our niece Danielle and her
friend Blanca enthusiastically booked trips to join us. Luckily, airports
are scattered all over Norway so we were able to arrange arrivals that
dove-tailed with destinations we were eager to explore. Lindsay and David
joined us in Bergen for a cruise among the fjords and quaint coastal islands
that surround this lively and historic city. After their departure, we
hopped north to Ålesund visiting several special stops along the way including Skjerjehamn
where paintings and sculptures grace the surroundings both inside and out.
On our way north in June we had this quiet setting all to ourselves.
When we returned in July we found an entirely different scene! Skjerjehamn
was packed with dozens of boats and hundreds of people enjoying a three day
music festival.
Guest dock and restaurant at Skjerjehamn
In Ålesund, we were joined by the two
enthusiastic recent college grads, Danielle and Blanca. We were eager to
show them the magic of Norway so we set sail for one of the most beautiful, and
uncrowded fjords in this part of the coast. The nearby Geirangerfjorden
is one of the most photographed fjords in all of Norway but this celebrity
status draws a crowd of tourist excursion boats. Instead, we sailed up
the Hjørundfjord just to the west and tied up for two idyllic days at the guest
dock in Øye. From here we had access to amazing hiking on the peaks of
Saksa and Slogen. We also enjoyed a gentrified evening piano recital at the
Union Hotel which is famous for hosting Kaiser Wilhelm of Germany for several
summers at the turn of the 20th century.
Alembic deep in a Norwegian fjord
With our guests already giddy about
these adventures we kept the momentum going by taking them to the southern-most
puffin colony in Norway on Runde Island. The puffins did not disappoint
with their casual tolerance of the gawking admirers. To top off the week
of adventure, we headed back to Ålesund for front-row seats at the largest
bonfire in the world held on the summer solstice celebration. The 135’
wooden tower of shipping pallets burned with Scandinavian precision from top to
bottom over a two hour celebration of the longest day of the year.
Puffin at Runde Island rookeryWorld’s largest bonfire at Ålesund on the solstice
With the departure of our niece and
her friend, it was time to get down to some serious Arctic sailing. As
promised, we met our adventuresome friends Cam and Julie in the city of Molde
with its spectacular downtown filled with flowers. After a quick
provisioning run, we set off for our first stop at the pretty little island of
Magerøya. This little island is a world to itself graced with new guest
docks in sharp contrast to the 19th century merchant hall that currently houses
a small restaurant. The island with its historic structures is under the
care of a group of young people who manage the restaurant, raise wild sheep,
and assure that the setting remains welcoming to visiting boats. Although
it was raining upon our arrival, we had a hardy meal of Bacalao, the delicious
regional fish stew, and learned more about the island history from one of its
young stewards.
One unique aspect of traveling the
Norwegian coast is that most vessels travel along the semi-sheltered channels
leading through the numerous coastal islands. At these high latitudes
during summer it is either daylight or twilight essentially 24 hours of the
day. Given these conditions, we found that it was easy to make 100 mile
hops up the coast in order to savor some of the prime stops further along the
Helgeland Coast. This scenic region of Norway stretches from the
archipelago around Vega to just north of the Arctic Circle. Its portfolio
of natural wonders includes the low lying islands stretching for miles off the
coast, puffin rookeries, and rugged unique coastal mountains. We
cherry-picked a couple of favorite stops that were easily accessible from
anchorages or guest docks including the Seven Sisters near Sandnessjøen, Torghatten near Brønnøy, and
the Svartisen Glacier.
Climbing through the hole in the mountain at Toaghatten
Standing at the base of the Svartisen Glacier
After three hundred adventure-filled
miles from Molde, it was time to cross the Arctic Circle. The Arctic
Circle is not a fixed latitude. It is the southern most latitude where
the sun does not set on the evening of the June Solstice. As the earth
wobbles on its axis, this latitude is drifting northwards at about forty nine feet
per year and currently resides at 66°33′47.8″.
Across the Arctic Circle we sailed, passed a monument marking this
milestone and then we jumped into the frigid water to commemorate our arrival.
After two weeks of
sailing, hiking, and general adventuring we arrived in the large community of
Bodø. We said goodbye to our friends who shuttled off to the airport and
we were back to just the two of us on the boat after a month of visitors.
Bodø proved to be a convenient spot to re-provision and catch up on a few
boat projects. Everything we needed was a short walk from the guest
docks along with an assortment of bars and restaurants.
Since it was still
early July, we were eager to continue our Norwegian explorations to the unique
Lofoten Islands with their stunning landscapes and quaint fishing villages.
We jumped straight to the western end of the island chain with a forty
mile day sail to Reine. This town was voted to be one of the most scenic
in the Lofotens. Fish racks with thousands of cod fish heads drying in
the sun made for some interesting photos. A quick hike up the four
hundred and fifty meter peak of Reinebringen offered amazing views of the harbor
below and the surrounding mountains.
Fish heads drying on the racks in Lofoten IslandsReine from a harborside mountain peak
After a spectacular week absorbing the breath-taking scenery of the Lofoten Islands and enjoying endless sunshine, it was time to point our bow south. We had plans to be in Sweden by mid-August so we took advantage of the mild and settled weather of mid-summer to return to southern Norway. The tug of Norway proved to be strong, however. Instead of rounding the southern end of Norway and sailing to Sweden as planned, we lingered in the fjords near Stavanger, Norway into the fall. We chose to leave Alembic in Stavanger for the winter. We are still undecided which direction we will travel in the Spring. We may continue on to Sweden and the Baltic or we may return to the Arctic for another magical summer. After 4 years of cruising, 22,000 miles, and 27 countries, our visit to the Arctic regions of Norway stands out in our minds as one of our favorite destinations. One summer in the Arctic may not be enough!
It is 11:30 PM and I am sitting in the cockpit enjoying a Norwegian sunset. The sun has dipped below the western horizon and the sky is painted with broad brush strokes of orange, yellow, and red. It is the kind of moment that calls one to pause for reflection. The thought that captures me is how far we have come in the past 4 years of cruising sailing. Quite literally, we have sailed over 20,000 miles, visited 27 countries, and crossed an ocean. Figuratively, we are thriving in the lifestyle that we dreamed about for years while working and raising a family ashore.
Our cruising home on Norway’s Hegeland Coast
Although there are many aspects to beginning a successful cruising lifestyle, buying the right boat and outfitting for blue water cruising is certainly one of the most important starting points. So where to begin? Monohull or Catamaran? Older of newer construction? Fiberglass, steel, aluminum, or wood? Much of this depends on your budget, personality, skills, and how many hours you wish to spend working on your boat before setting sail.
Like most things in life there is a spectrum to the blue water boat market. At one extreme there are low budget project boats that can be purchased for less than $20,000. Most of these will require a total restoration often taking years to complete. The other end of the spectrum is actively marketed at the major boat shows. This end of the spectrum is supported by new boat reviews, welcoming booths for new production boats, and financing companies to help you realize your dream. New boats capable of crossing oceans, however, will usually cost more than $400,000 fully outfitted. For those that can afford it, this is certainly an attractive option. Between these two ends of the spectrum is a vast “middle ground” well supported by brokers and online listings. This “middle ground” of the blue water boat market is more attainable for many people that do not have the skills or time to complete a major restoration nor the budget for a newer boat. It is possible to find a great number of boats for less than $100,000 that are capable and comfortable. With careful selection, you can find one that needs only routine maintenance and minimal outfitting.
The cruising lifestyle can take you places you have always dreamed of
My wife and I are adventurous but conservative and pragmatic. We are frugal, and typically choose value and functionality over aesthetics. We also do our research and eagerly listen to the insights of others. It was important to us to own our boat outright with no financing so we quickly ruled out new or “newer” used boats. We briefly looked at a couple of project boats but realized that the project boats would require years to refit. We narrowed our boat search to older fiberglass sailboats that would meet the demands of offshore, blue water cruising.
To be clear, an older boat is best suited to someone that has the skills and interest to do most repairs and maintenance themselves. Skilled labor in boatyards is expensive and repairs to an older boat can quickly add up. For my wife and I, boat projects are part of the lifestyle and we enjoy the learning and satisfaction that comes with doing things ourselves. It is also helpful to be self-sufficient when cruising in remote areas.
With three adult kids and adventurous close friends, we hoped to have frequent guests during our travels. A priority was to have two private sleeping cabins along with a comfortable cockpit and salon. Catamarans and center cockpit monohulls best fit this priority. Although catamarans offered spacious layouts, it seemed that we would need to spend significantly more money to buy a catamaran that was truly capable of blue water cruising. In reality, catamarans of this caliber have only been built in significant numbers for the past 10 or 15 years. Solid cruising monohulls have been built for the past 40 years. In fact, many of the older monohulls are built more ruggedly than newer production boats. Our goal was to find a boat requiring only a reasonable amount of updated equipment to be ready to cross an ocean. We set our budget at $80,000 or less.
The refined list of requirements for our boat read like
this:
Monohull sailboat originally built strong enough to cross an ocean and still structurally sound
Layout offering 2 private cabins
Length as short as practical for the desired layout which translated to 38’ to 44’ given the vintage of boats in our price range
Full keel or long fin with skeg
Generous tank capacity
Engine young enough to give us at least 3000 hours of service
Price less than $80,000
It is a wonderful thing that there was both strong interest in cruising sailing and a decent economy in the early and mid 1980’s. There were numerous builders in North America and Europe churning out fiberglass monohull sailboats built to high standards of construction. We created a custom search on Yachtworld to identify listings of interest. Since we lived in Maine we also restricted our geography to New England. The shortlist of builders that emerged included: Whitby, Brewer, Pearson, Bristol, Island Packet, and Moody.
After looking at a half dozen boats we narrowed our search
to the Whitby 42. At the time, there were five Whitby 42s listed for sale in
New England. We chose the one in the best condition and paid $75,000 for
ALEMBIC. To be honest, we were not thrilled with the name. An alembic is
a type of vessel used in distillation. In a poetic context, however, the name
can also mean “a vessel that transforms and purifies”. The name has
grown on us with each mile under the keel.
In hindsight the attributes about ALEMBIC that made our transition
into the cruising lifestyle a success are as follows:
She was ready to sail immediately. Her equipment was adequate for coastal sailing and only a few big ticket items were required before venturing offshore.
Cosmetically she looked good. We did not need to perform any significant cosmetic maintenance.
Her original Ford Leman engine had been replaced with a Yanmar and she had accumulated only 2500 hours on the new engine.
She was structurally sound with dry cores in the decks and encapsulated ballast so no keel bolts to worry about.
Most importantly she inspired confidence in heavy weather. Most people recognize that their boats can handle heavy weather better than their crew. ALEMBIC is easy to handle offshore. This proved to be a blessing as we honed our skills in handling offshore winds and waves. Three months after setting sail we crossed the Caribbean from Haiti to Colombia in trade winds exceeding 30 knots each night and seas 6 to 9 feet. ALEMBIC loved these conditions and kept us safe and reasonably comfortable.
Lumpy seas in the North Atlantic
As we accumulate experience and success in our lifestyle,
people frequently ask us our opinions on how best to get started and what to
look for in a boat. Here are a few opinions we have formed.
Sailing performance is important. After all it is a
sailboat. Like it or not, if you want to complete predictable passages, motor
and motor sailing performance is essential. The coast of Norway is a
magical cruising ground. In the summer, however, the winds are light. We
clocked 250 hours on our diesel traveling the length of Norway.
Similarly, the Med is said to have too much wind or too little wind.
Unless you plan to spend most of your time reaching about the Caribbean, you
will want a boat that motors efficiently, quietly, and reliably.
Motoring quietly and efficiently is a nice feature for a cruising sailboat
There are several common structural issues that are best to be avoided in purchasing an older boat. One of the most common is decks where water has leaked into the wood core of the deck construction at fittings such as stanchions, chain plates, and hatches. Teak decking is also a major cause of water leaking into the structural core. Small localized areas (less than a couple of square feet) can be repaired at a reasonable cost. If there are wet areas throughout the boat, it is better to move on to another prospect. We did meet one clever boat owner that took his Union 36 to Roatan to have the teak removed and decks rebuilt for less than $5,000. Not a bad option if you have 6 months to spend supervising the work. In short, it is best to pre-survey any boat you may consider purchasing to rule out deck structural issues. Sadly, although teak is beautiful, I would further recommend avoiding any boat with teak decks that is over 15 years old.
Teak decks are functional and beautiful but can require expensive refit in older used boats
Another major structural issue with older boats is external ballast and associated keel bolts. Fortunately, there are many older boats with encapsulated ballast. This method of construction is far more durable. Alternatively, if you have your heart set on a design that has external ballast, you may be lucky to find a boat where a replacement of the keel bolts has already been completed.
The condition of the fuel and water tanks is also a key item to include in a pre-survey. Many older boats may require replacement of tanks. Depending on the accessibility of the tank, replacement can cost $5,000 to $20,000. Fortunately, tank replacement may be something you can tackle yourself saving thousands of dollars. I once replaced both diesel tanks myself in my Westsail 32 for less than $1,000. One fellow Whitby owner replaced his water tanks himself at a cost of less than $3,000.
Finding a boat that is in good condition except for the engine may be a good buying opportunity provided that the price reflects the cost of replacing or rebuilding the engine. Starting out with a newer engine can eliminate many headaches. The expense for re-powering a typical production sailboat is usually predictable. Generally speaking, if the existing engine is a mainstream brand and in reasonable condition, rebuilding the engine may be the lowest cost provided you can wait 6 to 8 weeks for the rebuild to be completed. Our Whitby 42 has a four cylinder Yanmar with turbocharger. Given the Yanmar pedigree, this engine will likely be worth rebuilding. She currently has 5,000 hours of run time. I anticipate that I will have the engine rebuilt sometime between 8,000 and 10,000 hours of operation. As for repowering with a new engine, Beta Marine has become a popular choice to replace older auxiliary engines. The Beta Marine engine is a marinized version of the Kubota industrial diesel. Beta Marine has done a great job configuring the motor for cruising sailboats.
A clean engine with less than 3000 hours should be part of the selection criteria for an older sailboat purchase
As for the lengthy list of other essential equipment necessary to outfit a cruising sailboat, there are many affordable boats that come well equipped. A good strategy is to look for a boat that has recently completed an extended cruise. The Southeast USA is a great place to look for a cruising sailboat loaded with gear. Many people have outfitted boats and headed south only to find the lifestyle not to their liking. Other sailors are completing mid-life sailing sabbaticals and heading back to the grind. Whatever the circumstances, there are solid boats for sale with equipment that is still relatively current and in good working condition. In our case, the only equipment upgrades that ALEMBIC required before crossing oceans were 2 new sails, a new Mantus anchor, a used Hydrovane windvane, an updated chart-plotter, and VHF radio with AIS receiver. The total price for these items was less than $11,000.
Like anything else, every sailboat represents a compromise of competing priorities. Most likely, no boat will meet all of the criteria that you establish for your boat search. Similarly, you will probably not be able to avoid all of the potential issues that I have attempted to outline in this article. Each boat will be a unique blend of design, features, equipment, location, condition, and price.
The cruising lifestyle is a rich way to spend as many years
as it takes to fill the voids in your life. Whether it is a mid-life
sailing sabbatical or the next phase of your adult life after a career working
ashore, starting off with the right boat can make all the difference.
Boat shopping can be a great adventure so start shopping early and take
your time to find the boat that will help you fulfill your dreams.
After sailing our Whitby 42 to Europe during the summer of 2018, our cruising calendar changed to accommodate the winter cold of Europe. By mid-October it was best to leave the boat securely in Belgium and travel back to our home in Maine for nearly 6 months – mid-October to mid-April. Faced with 6 months off the boat, I needed a project to keep me occupied. We decided to tackle a conversion of a cargo van to a camper van. Land cruising seems like a great lifestyle to complement our ocean travels so we needed a suitable land yacht. Here is a quick tour of our van and the construction process.
Van at the time of purchase on the dealer lot
After considering the Mercedes Sprinter and the Ford Transit we decided to purchase a late-model used Ram Promaster for our camper van. Key features of the Promaster are the front wheel drive for performance in the snow, tight turning radius, and wide interior dimension. Our Promaster is a 2018 model year and had 15,000 miles when purchased.
Typical view of the unfinished cargo space
The interior was the typical unfinished cargo space. The only windows in the cargo space were the windows in the rear doors. The interior of our van was clean with only the usual scratches from 12 months of cargo transport.
Interior Windows, Insulation and Panels
After installing new windows in the sliding door and drivers side panels, we were ready to add the insulation and interior panels. We decided to use PVC materials as much as possible to conform to material flammability standards for vehicle interiors. The PVC is also light weight and maintenance free. The ceiling is a tongue and groove PVC plank available from HomeDepot. The wall panels are 1/4″ thick rigid foam PVC .
For insulation, we chose sheep wool. This material offers good thermal and sound insulation with the added benefit of wicking moisture away from the metal. Moisture from the interior condenses on the metal skin of the van and will cause rusting unless it is able to evaporate.
Side Panel Construction: sheep wool insulation and rigid foam PVC panel materialView of the typical ceiling construction: wood blocking, wool insulation, tongue and groove PVC planks
Construction Challenges
We completed the construction of our van at our small cabin in Maine during the snowy winter. Without a garage to use as a shop, construction was completed either in the van or outside.
The 6′ x 10′ interior provides adequate space for panel prep and assemblyCutting of plywood for furnishings and other materials was done in my outdoor shop
One of my wife’s many talents is sewing including heavy duty items like upholstery and cushions. She was able to make the interior cushions and all window privacy covers. Her construction space was a bit warmer than mine!
Helen sewing window covers in our cabin kitchen area
The Finished Project
View of interior through side doorThe Promaster width allows for a 73″x54″ platform bed. Perfectly adequate for most peopleThe 12V Stakol cooler stows under the dinette seat on a rolling tray12V Cooler mounted on a rugged rolling base allows it to be pulled out to access as well as providing an extra place to sitColeman camping stove stores in a sliding tray that slides under the bed platformInterior view showing bed, dinette, and galleyInterior of the van with the privacy covers installed
Our plan for the next few years while we are in Europe is to explore the US by van in the late Spring and late Fall. This is the time of the year that the cruising season has ended in Europe and the ski season has not begun in Maine. We will start with the Southwest USA and then branch out from there.
During our planning for European cruising aboard Alembic our Whitby 42 ketch, we researched extensively the best solution for adapting to the 220V power standard that we would find in Europe. After looking into the various options for step down transformers, we decided to simply add a dedicated 220V shore power service. Alembic was built in the USA in 1981 and has the typical 110V 30 amp AC service of a cruising sailboat. We have interior outlets and just a couple of AC appliances. Specifically, we have a 2000W charger/inverter and a water heater that is 1500W AC or heated from engine coolant. All of our other AC requirements like computer charging is supported by a small 150W 12V to 110V inverter. With the prospect of leaving the boat in the water unattended for the European winter, we felt that it would be important to have a reliable source of electric heating and a dehumidifier. The 220V dedicated circuit was recommended by other boats from the USA as a low budget and reliable approach to support these appliances.
The first element of the 220V shore power circuit was the external connector. The shore power receptacle that we found in stock at the chandlery in France was designed for exterior installation but was not the typical flush-mounted receptacle that is more common in the USA. Given that we may remove the circuit at some point in the future, this exterior mounted receptacle seemed like a good choice because it also did not require a 2” hole to be cut in the cabin side. We mounted the receptacle inside a cubby hole in the cockpit coaming. The cable then went down into the interior of the boat through a water-proof cable gland. The other advantage to this more simple receptacle is that it uses a standard 220V/16A power cord typical of RV’s. The shore power cord was approx 50 euro and the receptacle was approx 45 euro. A flush-mounted receptacle and shore power cord with locking ring connector would have been in excess of 200 euro.
220V 16A shore power cord receptacle mounted in cockpit coaming
220V 16A receptacle mounted in cockpit coaming with cable running through to interior
The next element of the circuit was to add a breaker panel and breakers. It turns out that these components are common for residential use in Europe. We found everything we needed at a “Do it Yourself” hardware store in Belgium. A circuit of this nature uses a 30mA differential current breaker combined with a 16A overload protection breaker. The differential current breaker eliminates the need for a GFI receptacle. As a side note, the differential current breakers are becoming the standard for new construction in the USA.
Breaker panel installed in electrical locker
For the final element we needed to add receptacle inside the boat. Thinking again that the circuit may be a temporary installation, we chose to use a simple pig-tail style receptacle instead of a wall mounted receptacle. This pig tail extends out through a locker in the main cabin. When not in use, it is simply tucked away. Into this pig tail receptacle we plugged a power strip for connecting AC appliances.
220V 16A receptacle on pigtail
As for 220V appliances, so far we have purchased an oil-filled radiator heater. This will be set on the lowest setting to keep the cabin above freezing throughout the winter. We also purchased a Seaco dehumidifier to control the dampness inside the boat. Finally, we purchased a simple “smart” battery charger at an auto parts store to keep the batteries charged while living dockside for extended periods.
The complete investment for the 220V circuit and appliances has been less than 250 euro. An alternative approach would have been to install a step down transformer to continue to use the existing 110V circuitry. Marine step-down transformers are nearly $1000 and require a fair amount of space for installation. Alternatively, some people use an inexpensive outdoor power tool transformer (yellow plastic box) that can be purchased for less than $100. This type of transformer would have been left on the dock or on the side-deck where it would have interfaced with a standard shore power cord. We were not confident that this type of installation would be robust enough to handle 5 months of winter weather and could have been a fire hazard. Given these less desirable alternatives, we are happy with our 220V AC conversion.
Our Whitby 42 came with an Espar D4 Airtronic cabin heater that was installed by a previous owner. A reliable and easy to operate heater is a great thing to have when sailing in high latitudes and for stretching the season into the colder months. During the time we have owned our boat, we have sailed extensively in Maine, including living aboard one winter in Portland, Maine. We have literally used the heater for thousands of hours during this time. We have also enjoyed using the heater to take the morning chill out of the boat when traveling south in the fall through the Chesapeake and mid-Atlantic States. One season, the temperature landed in the mid-thirties in Beaufort, NC in late October! Unlike most of the boats in the anchorage, we were cozy aboard with the Espar. The other remarkable thing about a quick and easy cabin heater is that it is a great way to chase away the dampness in foggy and rainy anchorages.
Espar installed on engine room bulkhead
The Espar has proven to be completely reliable. During the winter we lived aboard in Maine, the only error code we ever experienced with the unit was a warning advising preventative maintenance after 3600 hours of operation. In fact, we did run the Espar nearly continuously from mid-November to early April. During the coldest weather, we supplemented the Espar with a 1500 watt electric space heater. Heating a boat during winter is a detailed discussion in itself. In general, it is difficult to heat exclusively with electric given that typical boats have only 30 amp service. Two 1500 watt space heaters will max out the electrical service while the Espar D4 unit is capable of 3000+ watts using DC power. Also, electric space heaters are only possible on shore power. The Espar uses very little DC electrical power so it is practical to run while underway or at anchor.
In our experience, the fuel consumption of the Espar is also reasonable. The specifications state the unit will consume approximately 1.5 gallons of diesel per hour when operating on a medium setting equivalent to 2000 watts of output. The consumption goes up to 2.4 gallons per hour when operating on a high setting equivalent to 3000 watts. In practice, the consumption if far less than these values because the burner does not run continuously. Although, I did not keep detailed records of fuel consumption during our winter aboard, I do remember that we went from November 1 to the end of January consuming only 100 gallons of diesel from our onboard tanks.
Espar D4 Airtronic Specs
After a winter in the Caribbean, we sailed across the Atlantic to the Azores headed for Ireland and England. Knowing that damp and cold anchorages would be waiting for us in this region, I decided that it was time to tune up the Espar. Prior to leaving the States, I contacted the Espar parts dealer in Michigan (www.esparparts.com) to ask what I should do to proactively service the heater. The technician recommended replacing the glow plug and screen. I purchased these parts and tossed them into ships stores.
While in the Azores, I finally got around to servicing the unit. On my unit, removing the glow plug was easy. The hardest part is removing the unit to access the service panel. Once this is done, a single allen head screw holds the service panel in place. Once this is removed the glow plug is clearly accessible. You simply torque it out of the unit with a 19mm socket. The screen was stuck in place with accumulated carbon residue but since I was removing and scrapping the part, I was able to pry it loose with a screw driver and pull it our with needle nose pliers. Installing the new components was simple. The screen simply pushed in place and the new glow plug threaded in easily.
Espar D4 Airtronic unit with service panel exposed
Glow plug accessible under service panel
Old glow plug and screen
New screen in place
Glow plug installation
I re-installed and test ran the unit with no issues. Alembic is now ready to head to colder climates.
Day four of an offshore passage seems to be the day when time and distance finally drift to the background. The journey becomes the focus not the landfall. During the first few days of a passage, I am constantly thinking about boat speed, distance covered, and the number of days still required to achieve the destination. This obsession takes me away from the enjoyment of the activities and observations of the passage itself. By the fourth day of a passage, the body has acclimated to the motion of the sea. Sleep patterns have been established, adjusting to the disruption of the three hour night watch that breaks into the peace of uninterrupted sleep that we enjoy while in port. I am finally settling into the journey and becoming reflective of the present. I am living in the moment. Listening to the whispers of the boat in harmony with the environment. Watching the sea and the sails.
A beautiful day for a sail in the middle of the Atlantic in June
Like many similar undertakings, preparing and getting underway for an offshore passage seems like an endless task in itself. We make lists of tasks that need to be completed. I often realize half way through the day that I am doing things that are necessary but not even on the list! The list seems never complete. Other lists highlight supplies that we need to find locally or order from afar. We often describe the efforts to find unique items locally in foreign ports as “easter egg hunts”. This is especially true for marine parts or specialty hardware items. As the departure date approaches, the window to order parts from afar quickly closes and the “easter egg hunts” become even more urgent.
As departure date approaches, the sense of inertia begins to build. “Will we ever get this boat moving again” becomes the sentiment. Anxiety seems to creep into decision making and conversations become more terse and strained. Are we prepared; will we see bad weather; will we have gear failures. These thoughts contribute to the building anxiety.
Finally, it is time to go. There will be a few things on the list undone. A standing joke among sailors is that there are always people who feel they need to finish just “one more spice rack” before the boat is ready. These people never seem to leave port and if they do, they don’t get very far before “the list” drives them back into port. There will always be tasks on the list to complete. Only safety related and critical repairs should keep the vessel in port.
Raising the anchor breaks the inertia and the passage begins. Anxieties remain for the first few hours until the boat is finally at sea and sails are set and trimmed for the sea conditions. The self-steering is engaged so the boat is sailing herself. It is time to settle into the passage, get in tune with the sea – ride the boat. When conditions are perfect, it is easy to feel like a passenger. The boat and the wind are in command.
Pre-departure anxieties have faded but new concerns become the focus of planning and thinking. Wind strength and direction, sea state, squalls, and currents dominate our thoughts. We have multiple ways to learn about weather. Before departure when we still have wifi, we download forecast data from the internet into our favorite applications. My latest favorite is Predict Wind Offshore. I download new grib files every 12 hours or so and study the wind and gust images for time windows out to 14 days. It is surprising how much the images change every few days. The forecasts are based on complex models developed and maintained by US and European governments. The model accuracy fades quickly too far into the future. This dense, pre-departure data helps determine a departure day but is only available at sea for those with expensive satellite data systems. Our other primary source for both pre-departure and post-departure information is the SSB radio broadcasts with our weather service provider, Chris Parker. Chris provides forecast overviews as well as custom forecasts for a boats position, course, speed, and destination. While at sea we attempt to talk with Chris each evening to obtain a forecast for the immediate and near-term future.
Radio schedules are events that add routine to life offshore. We typically participate in three types of radio nets. There is the Chris Parker weather net in both the morning and evenings. Sometimes we just listen to other boats conversations with Chris. Other times since we are a “subscribing vessel” we speak with Chris Parker directly. We give him our position and he provides a custom forecast for our experience over the next few days. We have found that other cruisers sometimes track our progress via these discussions. Several years ago we made an unscheduled stop in Ile-a-Vache Haiti. A cruiser anchored there welcomed us and said that he had been expecting us based on our radio discussions with Chris!
The other radio nets that we enjoy are position reporting and social nets. These tend to blend together. Both the Ocean Cruising Club and the Seven Seas Cruising Association organize position reporting nets for vessels in the Caribbean and Atlantic waters. During our recent passage between USVI-Bermuda-Azores, we participated in a seasonal net hosted by the SSCA entitled The Transatlantic Safety and Security Net. We checked-in each day at 2130 UTC and reported our position. We enjoyed hearing about the positions of other vessels also crossing the Atlantic with us. We were a group of 9 boats spanning 500 miles of ocean all heading to the Azores. Once we arrived in Horta we were already old friends.
Meals and snacking also adds routine to the passage. The evening meal seems to be the best time for the crew to gather in the cockpit for some together time. The weather often dictates the complexity of the meal. During rough weather meals are more simple and easier to prepare for the cook. During settled weather, cravings tend to inspire us to prepare more elaborate meals. Snacking also becomes an event. For me, I enjoy preparing a special snack for my night watch. It becomes a ritual that I look forward to and helps wake me up and settle into my duties through the night. Everyone aboard seems to have their own version of “comfort food”. It is important to make sure this is part of provisioning.
In this time of low cost satellite-based communication devices, it is possible to keep in touch with loved-ones and friends while offshore. We use a Garmin inReach device as our primary link to folks ashore as well as those afloat. The unlimited texting feature allows us to have casual communication with friends and family while also providing the security of emergency SOS contact. We often banter with friends and family throughout our passages. Folks ashore find the messages that also contain latitude and longitude position as a way to join us vicariously on our passage. We find that many other cruising vessels also have inReach type devices so we also communicate to these friends without wondering if they are in port or at sea because no cell service is required for them to receive our messages.
As the days pass on an offshore passage. The calendar is forgotten, and life is in sync with the rhythms of day and night and of course the weather. Days seem to pass quickly as the routines of the day seem to click off – cooking, eating, napping, reading, sail handling, maintenance, and more napping. The night time watch becomes something to look forward to instead of a burden. Since we do a one-man watch, this is the time for solitude and star gazing.
The sea offers opportunities to experience wildlife like no other setting. On our recent passage from Bermuda to the Azores, we spotted whales on two occasions. We watched for whales spouting, whales basking, and were rewarded with several breaching whales. Birds were also constant companions. Shearwaters are common in mid-ocean. They can be seen during calms as well as gales as if weather is not relevant to their comfort. And then of course there are the dolphins. At sea we frequently are befriended by pods of dolphin who visit us throughout the day. They dash in directly to the boat, swim under our bow for a few minutes and then dash off as quickly as they arrived.
Sperm whales greet us as we approach Horta
Weather becomes an event to add variety to the days at sea. Brisk wind drives the boat faster and the speed and motion makes cooking, sleeping, and moving about more challenging. It is also exhilarating to spend time in the cockpit enjoying the spectacle of the waves and the way the boat moves in harmony in this new terrain. Settled weather always follows the rough weather. These more settled days are welcome and offer a chance to catch up on sleep, dry out wet clothing and prepare meals in a quiet galley. Trade wind sailing is wonderful for its consistency, but there is also something nice about the variety of rough weather and calms that are found in the higher latitudes. Weather is not to be feared but understood. Without the weather, there would be no journey to experience.
Sunset over a calm sea in the middle of the Atlantic
Raising the Q flag
Boats line the wall in Horta, Azores
Arrival at the end of a successful passage is a triumphant event! It marks the achievement of a unique experience that is becoming increasingly rare in our world of technology, connectivity, and refined comforts. Sailing small boats long distances has never been safer with the equipment, navigation, and communication available to sailors today. The offshore passage, however, is still a unique adventure where a person is able to step into an environment unchanged for thousands of years and experience the sea in much the same way as the sailors from the past. The journey is the experience, not just the destination.
Like many construction features on a sailboat, there is more than one way to support a keel stepped mast at the deck collar and seal this opening from rain or seawater. In the past 6 months we have chocked our mast 2 different times with two different techniques. First we used the more traditional approach using hardwood wedges for chocking and a mast boot to seal out water. Most recently we used the Spartite polymer “cast in place” mast chock and sealing ring.
Our boat is a 1981 Whitby 42 center cockpit ketch. The main mast is keel stepped passing through a robust fiberglass deck collar on the cabin top. We sailed over 10,000 miles with the hardwood wedges that were in place when we purchased the boat. They were likely quite old as many of them were splintered on the ends from being hammered into place over many years of mast installation and removal. Since the boat was based in Maine, this was done each winter for storage on the hard.
Last Spring, near the end of a particularly lively 3 day passage from Belize to Florida, I noticed a creaking noise coming from the area of the mast collar. Unfortunately, our mast passes through the deck into a box shielding the mast from the interior. A quick inspection of the mast chocks is not possible because the top of the chocks are covered by a mast boot that is not easily removed and the bottom side is inside the mast box. There is a floor to ceiling panel of the mast box that can be opened by removing about a dozen screws. To better troubleshoot the creaking sound at the mast, I opened this panel and discovered that one of the hardwood wedge mast chocks had fallen through the opening allowing all the other chocks to loosen and the mast was beginning to move within the mast collar. As you can imagine, this condition could be particularly dicey on a long offshore passage. As a quick remedy, I reinstalled the mast chock that had fallen out of place and tightened all the chocks with a rubber mallet. I re-used the mast boot that was in place but noted that the water tightness was likely compromised.
Before departing Maine in the Fall of 2017 for our trip to the Eastern Caribbean, I rebuilt the mast chock to assure that it would be robust for our planned offshore passage. I was able to purchase a half dozen new hardwood wedges from the Landing Wooden Boat School in Rockland, Maine. I also needed to replace the sealing material used for the mast boot. When we purchased the boat, the mast boot was a two piece construction. The inner layer was a soft, sticky black membrane material similar to ice and water shield used in home construction. This material was reusable to a degree but after years of manipulation, had developed a few holes. This layer was wrapped around the mast and secured top and bottom with giant hose clamps. The outer layer was a vinyl covering that wrapped around the mast and deck collar and was closed with Velcro. I could not find the exact membrane material but I realized from my construction experience that Vicor window and door flashing was very similar and likely a fraction of the cost.
Traditional wood wedges supporting the mast
Grace Vicor window flashing makes a great sealing barrier for a mast boot. A white vinyl boot covers this for aesthetics.
With the new materials in hand, I disassembled the mast chock in Rockland Harbor and reassembled with the new wedges and sealing material. Overall, I was pleased with the outcome but not fully convinced all our problems would be solved. The new sealing material looked great so I was not concerned with leaks. The bigger issue with the wedges I used is that they could still fall down into the deck collar if they loosened up over time. A better arrangement with wooden mast chocks is to cut them in a way that the top of the wedge has a lip that will stop the wedge from falling too far down into the collar. This requires custom cutting each wedge after measuring the gap between the mast and collar. The wedge must be cut so that it wedges in firmly without bottoming out on the lip at the head of the chock. I did not have the time or the resources to custom cut wedges so I buttoned up the project with the less than optimal wedges and headed south.
At the Annapolis boat show, I revisited the project by chatting with the many riggers with booths at the boat show. After several good discussions I decided that a Spartite mast chock was a great alternative to traditional wooden chocking. The Spartite Mast Wedge Replacement System comes in two sizes, small and large. For our mast, I purchased the large kit. I did not get a chance to install the Spartite mast chock before heading south, so the kit stayed in storage until we found a good spot to complete the project. One of the things recommended for installation is that you have a calm anchorage so that the mast is not swinging with wakes and surge. We found just the spot in the lagoon in St Martin.
The first step in the process is to remove all of the existing chocks. I was worried that my mast might move within the deck collar when I did this. I was pleasantly surprised that my mast moved less than 2mm when I removed all of the chocks. I left all the rigging tight in spite of the recommendation in the instructions to loosen rigging.
The Spartite kit includes all items required to complete the project except for standard masking tape. The Spartite mast chock is cast in place using a 2 part polymer compound. To create the form to pour the liquid into, you need to first create a dam within the deck collar to form the bottom of the chock. At the top you also create a circular form of masking tape to create the top lip of the chock. The Spartite kit includes foam insulation and modeling clay to pack between the mast and the deck collar to form the bottom dam. Standard 2” masking tape is used for the top form. Once the forms are complete a very important step is to apply the Vasaline supplied to the inside of the deck collar. The Vasaline is used as a mold release so that the polyurethane chock does not bond to the inside of the deck collar. It is absolutely necessary to have this mold release so that when the mast is removed at a later date, the polymer chock comes out of the deck collar. As an option, it is also recommended to coat the mast so that the polymer chock may be slide up the mast after the mast is removed. Once the forms are in place and the Vasaline applied, the last step is easy. The kit includes 2 mixing buckets and pre-measured cans of the 2 part polyurethane compound. You simply mix the two parts together and then pour the liquid into the form around the mast. The material hardens quickly and within a few hours it is firm although the center remains curing for a couple of days. The instructions recommend not sailing for a couple of days to assure the material is fully hardened.
Based on our experience, we would strongly recommend the Spartite solution. It is simple to complete and the result is a mast chock that will not loosen in rough conditions. It is also completely watertight. No mast boot is required for sealing purposes. We fabricated a canvas mast boot for cosmetic purposes.
Masking tape creates the top of the form with modeling clay sealing the bottom
Modeling clay between deck collar and mast creates a seal so that polymer can be poured in from above
Cured polymer creates a one piece solid mast support replacing wedges
It is impossible not to feel exposed and vulnerable when sailing on a small boat far from land and sheltered harbors. Mother Nature is clearly in command of the seas and the weather. We venture offshore prepared as best as possible. We gather the most complete forecast available. We avoid sailing in the stormy seasons. Still, we are vulnerable.
One reaction to experiencing this vulnerability is a stronger appreciation for smaller, even more vulnerable creatures that cross our paths while cruising. Protecting God’s creatures seems to be an easy way to build a balance of positive karma and keep us in Mother Nature’s good graces. I find myself even reluctant to kill certain insects. Butterflies and honeybees are top of the list to be protected! Biting flies and cockroaches are not regarded with the same respect, however.
We have been fortunate to have the opportunity to render assistance to several other more interesting creatures in our travels. On one passage from Mexico to Florida, we realized that we were sailing along a migratory route for small birds. Each evening of the four day passage we were visited by small swallows exhausted by their travels. On the first night, a swallow boldly flew in and out of the cabin to the point we lost track of him. To my surprise, I awoke at dawn in my sea berth and found the little bird just waking up in the book shelf beside me. Off he flew well rested to continue on his journey north. On the second night, once again, a small exhausted swallow found a suitable nest on the screen of a partially opened deck hatch.
Swallows looking for a quiet place to spend the night
The big event was on the 3rd night out when a flock of 20 or more swallows swooped into the cockpit just as the sun was setting. Surprisingly, these bold little birds showed no fear of us. They would climb on a finger or wooden handle of a spoon as we tried to move them to safe spots under the dodger. Our attempt to create order for a night at sea did not appear to be successful as the birds continued to flutter around showing particular interest in perching on the wheel that as moving back and forth under control of the autopilot. Finally when darkness fell, the birds seemed to drop into a deep sleep. We were able to scoop them up and place them in a safe place without causing them to stir in the least! As the sun rose at dawn, the spell of sleep was broken. The birds would awake, ruffle their feathers and then take off in groups of 2 and 3 at a time. Sadly, one seemed to linger until we realized that he had expired in the night. The trip must have been too much for his meager reserves. Hopefully, the rest of the flock was refreshed enough from a good night’s sleep to complete their long seasonal journey.
Our feathered friends seem to enjoy the perch on the steering wheel
On a recent spring passage from Norfolk to Block Island, we discovered a small tree frog that was an unfortunate stow away. He must have snuck aboard when we were tied to the wall of the Great Bridge Lock on the Intracoastal Waterway outside of Norfolk, Virginia. Early on the second morning at sea, I discovered our friend hiding behind a cockpit cushion. It was early in the spring and nights were getting quite cool as we ventured north to Block Island. We made a terrarium out of a large can. We placed a moist sponge and greens in the can to keep the frog comfortable. We were able to feed our guest small flies that also seem to frequent these waters. He seemed to be handling the passage in good health but we needed to get him to a suitable place to release him. We were heading to Maine and it seemed likely to be too cold for a frog from Virginia.
Brilliant Green Stowaway on Cockpit Coaming
When we reached Boston, we stopped for a brief visit with our daughter who volunteered to take over our care for the frog and find a suitable home. Much to our surprise we received a photo of our frog two weeks later in an exhibit in a natural science museum in Western Massachusetts! Karma was preserved!
