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Offshore Passage to Bermuda – This Doesn’t Suck

This night is surreal.  We are 300 miles from Cape Hatteras and 350 miles from Bermuda in the middle of the ocean.  The moon is nearly full and the ocean is flat calm.  A lazy swell rolls in from the east but on top of this are only ripples from the light breeze.  The light of the moon makes a silvery, undulating streak over the surface of the ocean.  Looking toward the moon, the sky is the color of lead filled with contrasting light gray clouds.  Unfortunately, the sound of the engine disturbs this serene setting.  Above the steady background noise of the clattering diesel is the sound of the wake as Alembic’s bow pushes water aside.  No other sounds can be heard.
We are on our passage to Antigua in the eastern Caribbean.  Faced with an unusual forecast of light to no wind, we are motoring to Bermuda to refuel and then continue our passage south.  Overall, this is not a bad way to make the trip.  Leaving the east coast of the USA, it is necessary to travel east/south-east until reaching the longitude of the islands before dropping south into the trade winds that blow predictably from the east/north-east this time of year.  Sailing east this time of year typically presents a mixed-bag of weather.  Generally, it is necessary to close reach in wet easterlies or romp and roll through confused seas driven by northerly winds. The first obstacle to clear is the Gulf Stream.  We reached the Gulf Stream 24 hours after leaving Hampton, VA.  Even in the light winds that we encountered, the Gulf Stream was a washing machine of confused seas and steep faced swells.  The ocean became more settled as we cleared the axis of the stream and entered the calm seas on the south-east side of the stream 20 hours after entering this powerful ocean current.

Calm Seas Between Norfolk and Bermuda

Apart from the confused sea-state, the other sign post marking the stream is the water temperature.  Leaving the Chesapeake, the ocean temperature was a relatively cool 65 degrees.  Upon entering the gulf stream, the temperature rose first to 75 degrees and hit a high temperature of 78 degrees.  Upon exiting the stream, the warmer waters remain near the same temperature.  We have seen the last of cool nights for the foreseeable future.  In the words of a friend – “this doesn’t suck”.
Our biggest concern with this leg of the trip is having enough fuel to get us to Bermuda since there is no wind to push us along.  The total distance from Hampton to Bermuda is approximately 650 miles.  Alembic carries 100 gallons of diesel in fuel tanks and we have 20 gallons on deck in 4 Gerry cans.  All told, our range is close to 800 miles if we manage our fuel closely.  As I complete this paragraph at about 5:30 in the morning, the sun is rising and the wind is just beginning to stir.

Dawn on Passage to Bermuda

By 5:30 we are sailing along at an easy pace.  Throughout the day the wind increases until is blowing 18 to 23 knots.  We enjoy our first sustained period of sailing on this passage.  We also get a chance to use the Hydrovane self-steering auto pilot.  The Hydrovane is a silent helmsman who needs no electricity to keep him on task.  Unfortunately, the wind only lasts about 14 hours and then we are once again becalmed and turn on the motor to keep us moving to Bermuda.
We arrive in beautiful St George Harbor at approximately 4:30 in the afternoon, 4 1/2 days after leaving Hampton, VA.  The arrival at Bermuda is friendly and efficient as Bermuda Radio contacts every boat approaching the island and coordinates their safe arrival.  We are directed to the small but neat customs dock, tie up Alembic and complete the clearance procedures within 45 min.  We anchor, launch the dinghy and taste our first Dark and Stormy at the White Horse Pub as the sun sets!

St George Harbor Bermuda

in Lifestyle

Schooners Everywhere! Just Another Day on Penobscot Bay…

This past August we left Belfast, Maine for a short sail to Carver’s Harbor on Vinalhaven. The trip was about 20 miles down Penobscot bay past the ports of Camden and Rockland. Slowly we realized that in every direction we looked we saw another schooner under sail. Most seemed to be heading from the mainland ports toward the many islands and anchorages of one of Maine’s best cruising grounds.

 

Isaac H Evans flying a Canadian courtesy flag

Stephan Taber

There are more than a dozen schooners in the Windjammer Fleet sailing out of Camden and Rockland on multi-day adventure cruises. The vessels vary in age, accommodations, and amenities. The oldest in the fleet is the Lewis R French. Launched in 1871, the French is a National Historic Landmark. Another amazing member of the fleet is the Ladona. Although the Ladona was launched in 1922, she recently went through a total restoration requiring over 2 years to complete. She now has some of the most attractive cabins found in a boat of this type.

Chasing one down Vinalhaven Reach

Another view of the Stephan Taber

The Windjammer charter fleet is not the only place to find these beautiful schooners still hard at work. A number of capable ships are being used as educational venues. While in Belfast we anchored beside the Spirit of South Carolina a school ship out of Charleston, SC. Another school ship, the Corwith Cramer was undergoing a refit in the Belfast Front Street Shipyard.

The schooners of the Maine are certainly a special part of Maine cruising.  I am not sure there is any place else in the country where so many of these vessels are hard at work.  These vessels are not museum exhibits.  They are sailing hard and earning their keep!

Most likely the Lewis R French

Possibly a privately owned schooner – they are everywhere

in Lifestyle

The Gulf of Maine – A Happening Place

We recently had the pleasure of crossing the Gulf of Maine in Alembic with a friend Sarah, an experienced biologist.  Sarah kept us alert to wildlife sightings and also shared a number of interesting facts about this unique body of water.  The Gulf of Maine is about 36000 square miles bounded to north by Nova Scotia and to the south by Cape Cod.  There are several significant banks in the Gulf including Georges Bank and Stellwagen Bank.  The Gulf of Maine is home to over 3000 marine species and countless species of birds (Sarah’s specialty).  One special aspect of the Gulf’s banks that draws attention is the frequency of whale sightings.  We were not to be disappointed!
In Sarah’s words, the Gulf of Maine is a happening place.  Marine creatures and wildlife are drawn to the Gulf of Maine because of the cool waters stirred by the warm Gulf Stream from the south and cool Labrador Current from the north.  These currents transport an abundance of marine life from the top to the bottom of the food chain.  Giant Humpback whales feed on tiny plankton, krill and tiny fish.  Numerous fish species from large sharks and ocean sunfish to smaller haddock and herring abound.
Birds including shearwaters, gulls, and terns are ever-present.  Many of these bird species nest in the summer on the offshore rocky islands off the Maine coast.  For the rest of the year they remain in open ocean habitats migrating thousands of miles.  Sarah explained that new technology enables biologists to attach tiny satellite transmitters to migratory birds providing new data on the traveling habits of these special creatures.  A common tern can migrate hundreds of miles in a few short days reaching speeds of 30 MPH!
Our favorite sightings of the trip included an ocean sunfish.  These giant fish weigh thousands of pounds and wallow on the surface showing a single shark like dorsal fin that flops from side to side.  We spotted, countless numbers of shearwaters, terns, and gulls.  Sarah gave a running description of each species and her favorite characteristics about each of these cherished creatures. Finally, for marine mammals we saw porpoise, seals, and best of all WHALES!  For at least an hour crossing Stellwagen bank we saw countless spouts, fins, backs, and tails.  And best of all, while all three of us were watching one particular spot on the horizon a humpback breached completely out of the water.  We were able to see the entire body airborne for a split second before crashing into the water with an explosion of spray!
The Gulf of Maine is truly a unique place that many people take for granted.  It is also a place experiencing rapid change.  The Gulf of Maine is warming faster than 99% of all other ocean waters.  Traditional species like Cod and Haddock are retreating north to cooler environments.  Lobster are still abundant but researchers forecast that lobster will migrate away from warming inshore waters and move to deeper habitats or to colder climates to the north.  Other species like squid and new crab species will become more abundant.  Hopefully, in spite of all this change, the Gulf of Maine will remain a thriving marine ecosystem.  Only time will tell.  Enjoy it now while you still can!
in Lifestyle

Western Caribbean Short Cruise

For US East Coast cruisers looking to extend their cruising experience beyond the Bahamas, the Western Caribbean short cruise offers an adventurous alternative to the more common Eastern Caribbean destinations such as the BVI and Windward Islands. My version of the “Short Cruise” includes Bahamas, Cayman Islands, Honduran Bay Islands, Belize and Mexico.  For those with a bit more time, Cuba and Jamaica are also convenient to this route.  One of the greatest aspects of the Short Cruise is that most of the sailing route takes advantage of favorable winds and currents.  This is a key difference between this Western Caribbean route vs the “Thorny Path” of traveling from the Bahamas to the BVI via Turks and Caicos, Dominican Republic, and Puerto Rico.
 
 
During the 2016/2017 season we were eager to return to the Western Caribbean but we were looking for an itinerary that was a bit less demanding than the prior year because we also planned to spend some time off the boat in January and February to catchup on some skiing at our home in Maine.  The Western Caribbean short cruise seemed like the right balance.  The following voyage description is a compilation of our experience along with advice and information that we gathered in our Western Caribbean travels.
 
 
Georgetown Bahamas with its proximity to the Windward Passage offers a good starting point for the Western Caribbean.  Skipper and crew wait for a period of light winds from the north east and steer a course directly for the western end of Great Inagua Island.  Exiting Georgetown via Hog Key Cut to the south east of Georgetown is a neat little adventure.  Vessels with 6′ draft or less can use this short cut.  Alternatively, you may sail around the North end of Long Island and then steer south east to the same waypoint at the Western End of Great Inagua.  We did not make landfall on Great Inagua but used this as a waypoint before steering toward the Windward Passage just east of Cuba.  We have known boats that stopped at Matthew Town on Great Inagua.  It is possible to clear out with Bahama customs and immigration at Matthew Town.
 

Route from Georgetown Bahamas to Grand Cayman

 
 
Once clearing the south east corner of Cuba, the passage to Grand Cayman is an easy down wind run in the prevailing trade winds.  For much of this leg of the trip, you glide along the south Coast of Cuba approximately 5 to 10 miles offshore.  If someone wanted to enjoy a stop in Cuba, Santiago Cuba is an official point of entry and an easy diversion from the rhumb line to Grand Cayman.  Alternatively, if someone wanted to make a stop in Jamaica, Port Antonio or Montego Bay are just 60 miles South of the course to Cayman Islands.  Our passage from Georgetown Bahamas direct to George Town Grand Cayman took 5 days.  For much of the passage we were on a very broad reach or sailing wing and wing.  For our passage, the winds were less than 15 knots with seas were less than 1 meter for most of the trip.
 
 
Grand Cayman is a wonderful island to visit.  Although the island has a bustling cruise ship port and numerous resort hotels, it remains quite accommodating to cruisers.  Clearing customs is easy at the port of George Town.  The offices are located right on the waterfront and an officer will guide you to the different stops – Immigration, Customs, and Port Authority.  There are free moorings right at the port of George Town and a secure dinghy dock.  A wonderful Kirklands grocery store is walking distance from the dinghy dock.
 
 
For boats drawing 7′ or less, North Sound offers settled anchorages and a variety of places to visit.  One of the best all around anchorages is in Governor’s Creek.  The entrance is easy and we went in and out several times never seeing less than 8′ of water.  We preferred to anchor just inside near the Cayman Islands Yacht Club.  From here it is an easy dinghy ride up a canal to the back side of 7 mile beach or ashore to the restaurants near the Yacht Club.  We also took a couple of trips with Alembic through the canals to a wonderful quiet basin that is an easy walk to a major discount grocery store.  For an experience that is truly unique in the Western Caribbean, we tied up at the Camana Bay Yacht Basin.  The cost was less than a mooring on the US east coast.  Camana Bay is much like Coconut Grove with shopping, restaurants, a movie theater, and the best gelato in the Caribbean.  For a polar opposite experience, we traveled across North Sound to the seclusion of the Kaibo anchorage and enjoyed snorkeling off Rum Point.
 

Getting close with nature at Stingray City – Grand Cayman

Grand Cayman’s North Sound is a compact diverse cruising ground for those drawing <7′

Camana Bay – not your typical western caribbean experience

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
After clearing out of the Cayman Islands you again sail down wind for 2 1/2 days and will find yourself off Guanaja, 25 miles NE of Roatan.  Guanaja is a great place to start your Bay Island experience and an easy destination to enjoy.  A unique aspect of the place is that the majority of the population lives on the small island that sits 1 mile south of the main island.  Over 4000 people live on this small island in the town of Bonacca.  Helpful ambassadors will meet you at the dinghy dock and guide you through the immigration and customs process.  Fees are minimal and the authorities are helpful and pleasant.  The ambassadors are happy to receive a $10 tip for their services.  After clearing in, enjoying a cold beer in one of the small bars, shopping, and exploring the busy small town of Bonacca you will want to move over to El Bight Bay to anchor among the other cruisers and enjoy this tranquil setting.  Ashore there is a delightful walk to several different restaurants as well as an adventurous hike to the peak of the island.  A short dinghy ride from the anchorage are wonderful reefs for snorkeling and fishing.
 

Guanaja Anchorage – an international cruising fleet

 
 
Roatan is an easy day sail down wind from Guanaja.  The Frenchman’s Cay area offers both an excellent anchorage behind the reef as well as a welcoming marina.  From here it is an easy walk or short cab ride to a modern grocery store for provisioning.  It is also an easy place to arrange transportation to other areas of the island.  Roatan can be a bit hectic.  After a short visit here, the mellow vibe of Utila is a short day sail further west.  Utila has a wonderful anchorage right off the main village which is an eclectic destination for divers and young travelers.  It is an excellent place to find Whale Sharks during the season and several reefs are a short dinghy ride from the anchorage.  Restaurants are inexpensive and it is a handy place to provision especially for beer and wine before traveling to Belize.  Don’t miss the authentic French crepes from the small creperie on the Main Street.  Clearing out of immigration and customs is also very easy to complete in Utila.
 
From Utila, the offshore Belizian atoll of Glover’s Reef is just 60 miles to the Northwest.  We chose to leave Utila at about 10:00 in the evening and sail over night arriving at Glover’s Reef in the morning with the sun high enough to navigate the entrance to the atoll.  Leaving the anchorage at Utila in the dark can be a bit edgy.  If you save an incoming track on your chart plotter, following this track on departure can give you some peace of mind.  The channel into Glover’s Reef is easily followed in good light.  The entrance on the south end of the atoll is wide and calm and a wonderful anchorage lies just inside this southern entrance through the reef.  This anchorage offers a delightful sense of  all Belize cruising has to offer.  The reefs are healthy and are teaming with fish of many species.  Spear fishing is allowed on the southern edge of the reef, while the reefs in the conservation zone offer spectacular viewing.
 
 
From Glover’s it is best to sail directly to Placentia to complete the clearance process.  Clearing into Belize at Placentia is actually an enjoyable adventure.  Captain and crew pack up the ship’s papers and passports and walk on through town to the Hokey Pokey water taxi to Mango Creek.  Upon landing at Mango Creek, hop into any taxi and the driver will transport and direct you through the different offices you need to visit in Big Creek including: Immigration, Agriculture, Port Officer, and Customs.  Although, there may be a short wait at one or two of these stops, the officials are always courteous and friendly.  While you are in Mango Creek, ask the taxi driver to take you to one of the local restaurants for breakfast or lunch.  The last time I cleared into Belize, I took the first boat in the morning from Placentia and had time for breakfast before the immigration office opened.  I had a wonderful breakfast in a small local place.  Eggs fresh from the chicken coop out back and fried jack, a Belizean specialty.
 
After completing clearance and provisioning in Placentia, you are off to the many Cays along the barrier reef that runs the length of Belize.  In total, we have spent over 10 weeks cruising Belize and there are still numerous Cays and anchorages that we have not explored!  If necessary, you can easily make it from Placentia to Belize City in one week with a short sail each day and a fresh anchorage each night. We find Belize is a wonderful place to host guests.  You can either meet them in Placentia or Belize City and share a wonderful week of unique sailing, snorkeling, and dining.  We have spent time in the BVI as well as Belize.  Our experience is that Belize tops the BVI as a destination for sailing in sheltered waters surrounded by amazing reefs and other natural wonders.  There are also plenty of beach bars to enjoy sundowners or an occasional meal ashore.
 

Belize – best snorkeling in the Caribbean

 
 
Once your time in Belize comes to an end, it is time to start heading north to Mexico or the USA.  As for Mexico, El Cid marina in Puerto Morelos or Isla Mujeres are both an easy overnight sail.  Once you near Cozumel, the favorable Yucatan current kicks in at nearly 2 knots.  With prevailing easterlies trades, this sail is typically an exhilarating close reach.  Mexico offers a great place to breakup the trip back to the USA.  Clearing in and out, however, can be a bit tedious.  Our experience is that it is worth using an agent.  They are well worth the $50 cost for this service.
 
 
Whether leaving directly from Belize or from Mexico, the trip back to Florida will be the toughest part of the overall trip.  With the right weather, heading straight to Key West or the Dry Tortugas is the preferred route.  One year we made the trip from Belize City to the Dry Tortugas in just over 72 hours traveling just below a front that pushed out the prevailing easterly trades.  Another year, we left Isla Mujeres and sailed for southwest Florida close hauled in settled easterlies.  We made our landfall in Fort Meyers after 3 and a half days on a single tack.  Both of these passages were good for building our experience with sailing close to the wind and managing currents that flowed in variable directions along the passage.
 
 
Your return to USA will most likely close the loop of your western Caribbean short cruise.  You will have visited a number of new cruising destinations that will expand your horizons beyond the more commonly cruised waters of the Bahamas and Lesser Antilles.  You will also have logged over 2000 nautical miles and built your confidence and experience for other cruising adventures.

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Standup Paddle Board Storage Solution

A common item stored on boats these days is the Standup Paddle Board or SUP.  They are a wonderful piece of equipment to have aboard and are generally easier to stow and transport than kayaks.  I like to use the SUP for exercise or just to get away from the boat and enjoy the  edges of the anchorage.  Exercise on boats is an entire topic in itself but I will put in a quick plug for the SUP.  I am one of those people that gets antsy if I do not get a workout.  Whenever I can, I love to go for a long swim.  Swimming is often times not possible if the water is too cold or polluted or if the anchorage is too busy with other boats.  The SUP is often the most accessible way for me to get some exercise.  It is also a great way to explore the edges of the anchorage.  It is much quieter than the dinghy and standing above the surface gives a different view of the shallows.  I have had many a wonderful encounter with wildlife from this vantage point.
Once I realized how much I enjoyed having the SUP aboard our boat, I spent quite a bit of time sorting out the best way to store the SUP on deck.  What I came up with was a simple set of storage hooks and straps that I put together from parts that I found in a HomeDepot.  HomeDepot has a decent selection of metal shapes in a bin in the Hardware Aisle.  I purchased a piece of aluminum flat bar measuring 1”x1/8” x 3ft.  I cut the flat bar with a hacksaw and bent the flat bar in a vise that I found in the community shop area at Marathon City Marina.  The vertical portion of the storage hooks measure about 7” and the horizontal portion measures about 4”.  My wife stitched together a small piece of vinyl to provide a bit of protection from the hard edges of the aluminum.  Finally, I attached the storage hooks to the bases of my lower shrouds.  The SUP rests on the storage hooks and straps go around the shrouds to hold the SUP snug against the rigging.  My shrouds have wood rollers which help prevent the rigging wire from chafing the surface of the SUP.

The SUP storage hook was put together from readily available materials

The storage solution that I put together offers a couple of key features that I think are essential.  First, the SUP is up off the deck.  When I wash anchor mud down the side deck, it does not collect under and around the SUP like it would if the SUP were resting on the deck.  Secondly, that SUP is attached to the rigging vs the lifeline stanchions.  I see SUPs lashed to stanchions on many boats.  The stanchions are not strong enough to handle the potential load from a big sea crashing into a SUP lashed to this structure.  Standing rigging is much stronger.  We have transported our SUP on our boat for over 12,000 miles including many offshore passages without any issues.
Check out the photos for more details and let me know if you have any questions.

The SUP rests on hooks connected to the lower shrouds. Straps hold the SUP securely to the standing rigging.

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Upgraded Stern Rails and Lifelines

We recently completed upgrades to the aft lifelines of Alembic. Our goal was to add a mounting place for solar panels as well as to increase safety and security. First we added a stanchion just aft of the mizzen shrouds. We then added top and mid rails using 1″ SS tube and associated fittings. We connected these rails to the stern pulpit using hinged connectors (see photo).  After locking everything together with the mechanical set screws at the fitting joints, we took the stanchion and rail assemblies to a local welder to weld solid all the joints between tube and fittings.  The overall stern railings and pulpit are comprised of 3 sections.  There are the two aft quarter sections that are the stanchion and rails as a welded assembly and the original stern pulpit.  The side rails connect to the stern pulpit at the hinged connectors shown in the photos.  The rail sections on the aft quarters provide an excellent place to mount solar panels on hinged mounts.

100 Watt solar panel mounted to stern rail

 

 

Hinged Connector to connect side rails to existing pulpit

Rail connection to existing stern pulpit

We terminated the rail sections with anchor points to support the attachment of lifelines.  We replaced the wire lifelines with Dyneema line. Finally, we added a section of 1″ SS tube along the cockpit exit for additional security when entering and exiting the cockpit. This is a fairly easy installation using “90 deg T fittings” placed on top of existing stanchions to connect the 1” SS tube.  The Dyneema line extends through the center of this tubing section for added security.  A key fitting in this assembly is the “90 deg T fitting with anchor” (see photo) to support the connection of the lifeline gate.  This particular fitting is supplied by Sea-dog and was a special order item at my local marine store.

Solid section of lifeline at the exit of the cockpit to the side deck

The Dyneema line extends through the SS tube

Dyneema line connects to a turnbuckle then to the stern rail

T Fitting with Anchor for Connecting Lifelines

The upgraded stern rails and lifelines enhance the  safety and security of Alembic.  Support solar panel mounting was also very important to us.  With our mizzen mast, adding an arch to hold solar panels is not a simple installation.  We also have a canvas bimini so adding panels over the cockpit is also not an easy solution.  Given these constraints, the stern rail mount is a great option.
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No Davits? No Worries

If your boat does not have davits, a great way to lift your dinghy out of the water is to hoist it up the side of the boat using a mast head halyard.  All you need is a simple single point lifting harness, an available halyard and an open winch on the mast.  It is a great way to stow the dinghy at night or in choppy anchorages.
We have frequently thought of adding davits to Alembic but keep coming up with reasons to postpone the project.  One reason is the cost.  Davits are expensive.  The other downside is that we would lose valuable space on our stern.  Currently we have a boarding ladder on our stern and plan to add a windvane.  Finally, we have a mizzen boom.  Unlike the nice arch arrangements that many boats install, our davits would need to be below the mizzen boom.
In the absence of davits, we have come up with other clever ways for handling the dinghy.  While at anchor, we like to lift our dinghy out of the water using a mast head halyard.  This has several advantages.  The bottom of the dinghy stays clean and free of growth.  The dinghy is settled in a choppy anchorage; it does not bounce and splash all night long.  And finally, we feel the dinghy is more secure from theft.  It would be very difficult for someone swimming from shore to access the dinghy out of the water.  We have a simple single point lifting harness that we attach to 3 points in the dinghy leading to a lifting ring.  The harness is balanced so that the dinghy hangs with the bow slightly higher than the stern for water to drain.  To lift we simply clip a mast head halyard to the ring and winch it up using a winch on the mast.
While traveling offshore, we like to have the dinghy on the forward deck.  The dinghy is wonderfully secure there in even the largest of seas.  We have measured the time it takes us to remove the motor at the stern and then hoist the dinghy on the bow.  The entire process takes us less than 15 minutes.  Anytime we plan to travel more than 3 or 4 miles, we stow the dinghy on the forward deck to avoid the loss of speed from towing.  Given these techniques for handling the dinghy, it is likely we will postpone the addition of davits indefinitely.
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Fixing a Broken Boom Fitting

Anytime we take Alembic offshore we expose her to conditions that can make things break.  We try to sail conservatively and stay on top of our preventative maintenance.  In spite of best efforts, we still have unexpected gear failures.  During a recent passage from Cayman Islands to Belize we had the goose neck on the main boom partially shear off the mast.  I discovered the failure when I went forward to put in a reef to prepare for an approaching squall.  I immediately dropped the mainsail and we finished the passage with Mizzen and Genoa (Jib and Jigger).  Luckily we have an extra mast on Alembic!
So what made the goose neck fail?  The conditions were not particularly rough, however, they were conditions that can cause a bit of wear and tear.  Specifically, we had wind directly astern and wind speeds that were abating after days of high winds.  The seas were still running 5′ to 7′ but the winds had been dropping to <15 kts especially in the interval between squalls.  These conditions can be particularly annoying because it causes the sails to slat.  We were controlling the slatting as best we could with a tight preventer working against the main sheet.  In spite of this, several times an hour the boat would roll in a big sea and the boom would swing toward the centerline and then back out with a load THWACK!  This action creates a tremendous load on the goose neck fitting.
The goose neck of our boom attaches to a short track on the back of the mast.  The top most 1/4″ machine screw sheared allowing the track to pull away from the mast.  If the failure had gone undetected for a longer time, it is likely that more screws would have sheared and the goose neck pulled completely free of the mast.
Once in port, I quickly dove into the repair effort.  Luckily the goose neck track was easy to disassemble.  Who ever originally installed the track used sealant on the threads of the SS screws so there was no corrosion between the screws and the aluminum mast.  One contributing factor to the failure was the goose neck car was positioned at the top of the track so that a single screw was taking much of the load.  Instead of remounting the track in the same position, I moved the track up a few inches on the mast.  I then drilled and tapped all new screw holes.  Finally, I remounted the track to the mast using plenty of sealant to minimize future corrosion.
This repair was a good test to see how well prepared we were with the correct tools and spar fasteners.  I would give myself a “B” for this effort.  We have a great cordless drill and a good selection of drill bits.  We had the necessary spare fasteners for the job (1/4-20 x 1″ stainless machine screws).  We had a 1/4-20 thread tap in new condition.  The only thing we were lacking was a larger 3/8″ tap that we needed for one particular hole.  The hardware store in Placentia did not have the necessary tap.  Luckily, I was able to borrow one from my neighbor in the anchorage at Placentia.  So now I have a new item on my shopping list.  Next time I find a well stocked hardware store, I will purchase a Tap and Die kit that has a full range of sizes.  I will also add to my fastener collection which is something I do continuously.
The lingering question we always have when events like this occur is would we have been able to deal with this problem at sea if it were to occur on an extended passage.  In this case, I am confident we would have been fine.  I could have completed a partial repair quickly and easily while offshore and made a more complete repair while in port.
Finally, this event serves as a reminder that things break while cruising and putting them back together is part of the adventure.  It is essential, however, to have the skills, tools, and spare parts to handle these events with minimal stress and disruption to the lifestyle.
in Lifestyle

Cruising Karma #2: Share the Bounty

We were sailing into Hatchet Bay late afternoon in early December and I started to reel in the lure that I had been lazily trolling behind Alembic as we cruised along the Bight of Eleuthera. Suddenly, I had a solid strike and a fish came completely out of the water as it hit my lure. The fish made a couple of good runs but tired quickly so I was able to reel it in and land it successfully.

The fish was a wonderful King Mackerel measuring nearly 36″ long. I cleaned the fish immediately and had over 6 pounds of beautiful fillet. As much as I love to catch fish of this size, it can be a problem for us since we do not have a freezer on board allowing us to preserve big catches. Furthermore, King Mackerel has a wonderful white flesh but it is best if it is cooked within a couple of days.

The best solution was to find someone to share the bounty. No other boats were in Hatchet Bay but we left the next day for Allan’s Cay where we found another cruiser at anchor. Our cruising companion was more than happy to take 1/2 the fish off our hands. We felt relieved that the food would not go to waste.

Karma took notice of our gesture and we were rewarded several days later. We anchored for the night near Highborne Cay with several other boats. The next morning an inflatable approached from a large catamaran that looked to be a charter boat. A friendly sailor pulled alongside and asked if we would like extra food since they were ending there charter and had too much. We gratefully accepted a large prepared meal of marinated pork and a couple of 6 packs of soda. Not bad payback for a few pounds of King Mackerel!

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Cetol vs Armada Teak Finishes

Like every other owner of an old boat, I have spent many hours refinishing teak.  I have worked with varnish, teak oils, Cetol, and most recently Armada.  At this stage of our life afloat we find ourselves sailing as much as possible so we are looking for durable products that can be applied with a reasonable amount of effort.  Most importantly, the ease of follow-on upkeep is critical.
In the 2015/2016 winter season we sailed a 7000 mile loop from Maine to Colombia through the western Caribbean and back to Maine. This trip exposed our bright work to heavy sun as well as salt exposure.  The cap rails in particular took a beating.  As much as I love the look of varnish, I am certain that varnish would have started to blister and peel during this period creating an enormous amount of work to strip and re-varnish.  Teak finishes such as Cetol and Armada have the look of varnish but are more forgiving relative to upkeep and maintenance coats.  Both products call for an initial application of 3 coats.  Single periodic maintenance coats will keep the teak looking fresh.  Most importantly areas with peeling are easy to sand and re-coat.  I usually apply a spot coat on the bare areas followed by a single maintenance coat all over.
During our 2015/2016 season we had Cetol on all of our bright work and it performed well.  The cap rails required a single maintenance coat every 3 month or so but the hand rails and cockpit trim made it through the season in good shape.
Recently I decided to try Armada on my cap rails to see how it would perform.    The Armada is more clear than Cetol and looks very close to varnish.  I took advantage of mild weather while traveling through the Bahamas to strip the Cetol and apply the Armada to bare wood.  The Cetol strips very easily with a heat gun followed by light sanding.  My favorite trick is to take advantage of motoring on windless days to run my inverter (and heat gun) while the engine is churning out excess amps.

Removing Old Cetol Finish with Heat Gun

We left the boat in Georgetown Exumas at Christmas with the cap rails looking great.  Unfortunately, when we returned mid-February, the Armada was already showing signs of blistering.  After this experiment, I am switching back to Cetol.

Freshly Applied Armada Teak Finish on Cap Rail

My only complaint with the Cetol is the orange opaque coloring.  What I realized, however, is that it is only necessary to apply one or two coats of the Cetol Light (pigmented) and then switch over to Cetol Gloss (clear) for all other maintenance coats.  This keeps the finish looking more like varnish.  Like everything else with boating, there are trade-offs but Cetol provides a decent gloss appearance without the effort of varnish.

Cetol Marine Gloss. First Coats Should be Cetol Marine or Light

Armada Wood Finish – Clear Satin. 3 Coats with First Application

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